Stu's visit to Egypt. 

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01/21/02

Fire and Ice


One of the touristy things to do as a foreigner in Istanbul is to have a large, sweaty, bald man rub you down with hot, soapy water. These so-called  'Turkish baths' are supposed to be historic and cleansing and no one had  warned me of any dangers. Still, I was leery. I had been washing myself  privately for the better part of three decades and couldn't think of any  benefit to public bathing, especially when it involved audience  participation. Needless to say, I was less than enthusiastic as I walked  through the heavy wooden doors of the Cemberlitas Hammami. 

I went early in the morning, before breakfast, in an effort to avoid a crowd. Eight o'clock was too early on a frigid January morning for carpet sellers  and trinket hawkers, but the historic bath had been open for two hours  already. I approached the ticket window just inside the big doors and read  the information posted there. I had no idea of the process and hoped that I  wouldn't have to speak Turkish to anyone to find out. I still hadn't made up  my mind and any small inconvenience would send me in the opposite direction,  avoid of a new experience, but relieved.

Unfortunately, the flyer posted on the glass was clear and informative.  Also, the price was reasonable. I paid my twenty-five million Turkish Lira  (fifteen USD) like I was made of money and received a yellow, plastic chip,  about the size and shape of a domino, with the word "massage" etched into it.  So far so good. I waited for further instructions from the ticket seller,  but got only a cursory wave sending me away from the booth. I backed away  and turned toward a large, square room. It was open to three stories with a  balcony lining all four walls on the two floors above. There was a pile of  folded towels on a table in the middle. Three or four attendants in plaid  robes milled about behind the stack of towels. I stood for several seconds  wondering if I had made an embarrassing mistake, like walking into the  woman's section, or wearing the wrong kind of shoes. 

A short, fully dressed man approached me and pointed to a stairwell recessed into a corner of the room and said something in Turkish. Guessing he said,  "Upstairs, please" I followed him up the steps to the first balcony landing  and into a small room. He continued to speak Turkish and I continued to  stare blankly and say, "Huh?" I eventually put the pieces together and  guessed that this was a changing a room where I should disrobe, wrap a towel  around my waist, lock the door, and take the key with me downstairs when I  had finished. He would wait for me there and we would proceed to the next step.

Minutes later I arrived downstairs with a towel wrapped around my waist and key in hand. Suddenly a chorus of Turkish men yelled objections and with  much fanfare I was waved back up the stairs with a towel wrapped around my  waist and key in hand. I hurried into my little room panting and  embarrassed. Surely I had just made some kind of grievous error. Panic  stricken I searched the tiny room for any clue of what to do next.

I eyed my plastic massage ticket on the small table and a pair of slippers in the corner. I put them on and snatched the token. I peeked over the railing of the balcony before tip-toeing down the steps and caught the eye of the  attendant who had ushered me. I held up the token, lifted my foot to show off my new found footwear and waited for an approving look from below. He  smiled, nodded and waved his arm toward the stairs. I pointed to my chest  then pointed down just to confirm his instructions and he repeated my  gestures. I walked down the stairs cautiously and approached a small group of male attendants. One of them stepped forward put out his hand and spoke Turkish. I placed the plastic token in his hand and said, "Huh?"

He led me through a big, wooden door into a small antechamber with wooden benches and four marble fountains set into a stone wall. It was very sparse  and I was a bit disappointed. But then we walked through another thick,  wooden door and a moist wave of heat surrounded me. He directed me to a  large, flat, knee-high marble slab and had me lie on my back. The stone was  almost unbearably hot and felt soothing to my muscles. I lied on my back and stared at the ceiling. Suddenly, his face filled my field of vision and he said, "After twenty minute later, I rub. "Then he left the room. 

"Great!" I thought. I have twenty minutes to lie here and worry about what kind of torture he was planning for me. I stared at the round, domed ceiling filled with round, domed, glass portals that allowed ambient sunlight to seep into the room. The entire room was carved out of marble. The heated, round slab in the center of the room on which I reposed was large enough to hold twenty men. There were only three of us on it at the moment so there was no danger of actually coming in contact with another naked man. Marble fountain basins with brass fixtures were set into the marble walls around the slab. The marble columns that supported the dome were decoratively carved. The single, bare light bulb that hung from the end of a long cord attached to the apex of the dome seemed oddly out of place.

Eventually, my mind wandered and I was struck by the attractiveness of the room. I imagined what a relaxing, cleansing activity this must have been hundreds of years ago before advances in modern hygiene. Unfortunately, I couldn't shake the foreboding thoughts of a large, sweaty, Turkish man sudsing me up and rubbing me down. 

When he returned he was wearing an oven mitt on his hand. He gave a few gruff instructions in Turkish which I never understood but usually meant slide closer or farther or roll over or lift an arm or sit up. I guessed right most of the time. I knew it was pointless to ask questions, but when he saw me gape at the dark debris that was collecting on his loofa he replied with a smile, "Skeen."

After the industrial exfoliation he directed me to lie on my back. He poured buckets of hot water on me then began to lather me in thick airy suds. He rubbed my legs, cracked my toes and massaged my chest and arms. The piece du resistance came when he crossed my arms over my chest and heaved downward with his full body weight. I heard my own vertebrae make a noise that I usually associate with breaking glass. Before I could recover from the surprise he did it again. I didn't feel any pain. I was just amazed at the sound of my own joints. 

Then I sat up and he pulled a Steven Segal move on my neck. I had no idea it was coming. He was shampooing my hair and massaging my scalp when suddenly  he gripped my skull hard and threw my head sharply to one side, then, just as violently, threw it the other way. I heard a sound that reminded me of  knuckles cracking and realized that it had come from my own neck. I remember feeling no pain, not even numbness. Just that my head seemed suddenly  weightless. Either this was an effective body massage technique used throughout the Ottoman regime for centuries, or a large, sweaty Turk had just severed my spinal cord in several places.

When the next bucket of water hit my chest and almost scalded the hair off I decided that I hadn't actually been paralyzed. He finished the massage, rinsed me and left, saying that I could stay and wash myself and lie on the slab as long as I like, "No problem." I accepted the offer and lied down on the slab for another half-hour. I rinsed the sweat off with more very hot water and walked to the door.

The attendant met me with towels and wrapped one around my head, replaced the one around my waist and draped a third over my shoulders. He spoke more Turkish and I nodded and smiled when I thought appropriate. Following his prompts I returned to my change room with my key and dressed. I reflected on the experience and decided that even with my awkward western discomfort it was a pleasing and relaxing venture. On my way out I dropped the key into his hands with a tip and left the warmth and relaxation of the Cemberlitas Hammami.

The euphoric feeling that comes from severe exfoliation, scalding water and spinal contortion lasted about two steps out the door. That's when a snowball struck me square in the face. Luckily, it was loosely packed by a novice snowball-maker in haste. This also explained the missed target who I guessed was his teenaged companion ducking behind a kabap sign. 

Snow was falling at such a furious rate that it obscured the opposite sidewalk. It had already accumulated past the ankles and showed no signs of  letting up. A small herd of young men pushed a police van up the sloped street. The trams were stopped as men brushed and scraped the rails ahead of them. Autos were stuck in snow banks and some drivers were struggling to put chains on the tires. The streets were full of school aged children. Everyone was throwing snowballs. Kids, shopkeepers, even policemen were getting in on the act. Snow of this magnitude was rarely seen by Istanbulians.

A cafe owner stopped me, thrust a camera in my hands, and asked me (in Mime) to take a photo of he and his son beside a snowman they had made. I smirked as I snapped the picture. One foreigner taking a picture of another foreigner. Both of us staying for only a few days. I probably should have warned Frosty about the hammami.

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